It seems a little soon to have another update, but I had to give a more cheerful report on the coast weather than I had in the previous two. I don’t want to leave you with the recollection of foggy, cloudy days. March has been spectacular, with consistently bright, sunny days. As a result, there have been many more days of a deep blue ocean. And we have the beach partically to ourselves. We take our little chairs (actually backrests) and a good book down to the sand, spread our towels, and have a very peaceful time basking in the sun and watching/listening to the waves. We usually have to share the beach with 10-15 other people, but after the crowds of January and February, we can easily tolerate that. And the locals, the people who live here all year round, are returning with their towels and chairs as well.
Of all the places I have been in the world, Zapallar has the best waves on a consistent basis. While cold as heck, the waves in the bay are often great for bodysurfing. Regardless, the beauty and sound they provide when you are on the beach is special. And when the waves are big, it is an endless thrill watching the brave-hearted rising up the front of the waves, or taking a miscalculated tumble. And around the point at Mar Bravo, the energy and the force of the water is unique. The sets crashing against the rocks are magnificent. This month, we have been having so many ‘big’ days, and one can sit out there forever watching the display. About a week ago we had one of those very special days when the waves were enormous. I don’t know if it was because the moon was so close to the earth, but it was one of the best days ever, with waves crashing easily 50 feet into the air. I am so sorry I didn’t have my camera with me to document it.
One special thing about March is the light. Everything is so vivid and colorful. I do remember Santa Barbara being like that sometimes in September and October, and have fond memories of when I use to backpack in the Sierras during that time the year of how fantastic it was at 9000-10000 feet on clear, crisp days, the sun rising or setting over the granite peaks. The sun now in Zapallar is setting in the bay, instead of around the point at Mar Bravo. This leaves the entire beach, and the Cesar restaurant, with sun all day, rather than the shadows taking over on the right in the afternoon as it is during the summer. And the colors, of the water, the sky, off the hillsides, are a sensual treat.
For the first time ever, we saw a whale off the coast here.
No report from Chile is complete without a mention of earthquakes. A few weeks ago, we had 2 days of rockn’ and a rollin’ here in Zapallar with five earthquakes in that span. The first was 5.3, and our solid brick and concrete house shook for 20-30 seconds. The others were all around 5.1 or so. These numbers do not sound so significant for what has been happening in this country, but what made them unique to us was that they we so close. All were centered with 10-12 miles of Zapallar, between here and La Ligua. The closest was just up the coast 3 miles or so. Each gave us a serious jolt and sent Maria scurrying for the doors. The last was amazing. We were laying on the beach and the whole beach suddenly shook with a hard jolt. The resulting echo off the surrounding mountainsides was what was really amazing. Quite a ‘crack’.
I did take a quick trip to Mendoza, Argentina, by myself. I flew over on LAN and took a TurBus back the next day. This satisfied 2 needs of mine. First, it reset the expiration date of all my LAN miles to a full 3 years. Secondly, it restarted my 90-day tourist visa to get me through the whole 4 months. The views of the Andes were spectacular. On the flight over, the Aconcagua, the third tallest mountain in the world at 6959 meters, towered in the early morning light over the rest of the peaks. And the drive back goes over a very steep pass at Portillo. In Mendoza, I walked, and walked, and walked. I was not too impresssed with the town, although the trees over the streets were beautiful. At night, as I wondered through the parks and viewed the artesenia faires, I got a better feeling for the town. Although the wine center of Argentina, I didn’t want to take a tour bus out into the countryside. I could take the bus back whenever I wanted, but the delicious steak and wonderful milanesas could not keep me more than a day.
We are off to Santa Barbara on Tuesday. Of course, I am in my usual state of being ready, completely ready, to get back to an English speaking environment, but we are going to miss being in this house, which is so comfortable for us. And leaving Zapallar itself now, with the weather and the waves and the fantastic light, is not thing you joyfully leave. We have lots of friends here, and have enjoyed them during the last 4 months, but we look forward to seeing our family and friends back in the USA. As Al Jolson sang, “California here I come…”.
